2020 Riesling, Scharzhofberger, Grosses Gewächs, Van Volxem, Mosel

Located on the site of a Jesuit monastery, Van Volxem has been restored to its former glories by the investment, initiative and flair of Roman Niewodniczanski. Standing tall at 2.4 metres (not far off 7 feet, I reckon) and not without lofty ambitions, Roman is determined to make this the finest property in Germany. Ambitious indeed, and thus far he’s threating to fulfil this ambition. Eschewing the constraints of the Prädikat system, Roman is making late-harvest, low-yield vins de terroir, and making them very well indeed.