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From a cool year, with a late start to spring and an early end to summer, which generally produced lighter, earlier drinking wines, Sassicaia 2014 nonetheless rises above the noise with a fresh and juicy expression of fragrant dried fruits and moreish blackberries with spicy, meaty and balsamic touches. 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The sweet fruit and nut extract counterparts to these high-tones fan out in the mouth with liqueur-like richness, palpable abundance of extract, and ultra-fine tannins. Smoky, stony undertones convey an almost reverberative sense, but this is far less dominated by metaphorically dark, decadent, or meditative aspects than are most representatives of its great cru. Nor has this the soothing allure that characterizes so many of the best 2006s. A palate-staining, gripping, electrically energetic finish is in store for the lucky few who are served this (there were five barrels), featuring implosively-concentrated black fruits and meat reduction mingled with soy, nut paste, and brown spices. 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